Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands is one of Malaysia’s most extensive hill stations. It covers an area of 712 square kilometers.

To the north, its boundary touches that of Kelantan; to the west, it shares part of its border with Perak.

Situated at the north-western tip of Pahang, the “Camerons” is approximately 85 kilometres from Ipoh or about 200 kilometres from Kuala Lumpur.

During the day, the temperature seldom soars above 25°C; at night, it is the opposite: the temperature can sometimes drop to as low as 12°C.[1]The resort has a diverse population of more than 34,000 people. It comprises Malays, Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups. The literacy rate here is above 88 per cent.

The plateau was first developed by the British in the 1920s. It is made up of three sub-districts, namely Ringlet (5,165 ha), Tanah Rata (2,081 ha) and Ulu Telom (63,981 ha). Of the three, Tanah Rata serves as the administrative centre of the region.

In all, the retreat consists of eight neighbourhoods. The three townships are Ringlet, Tanah Rata and Brinchang. The area's five settlements are the Bertam Valley, Kea Farm, Tringkap, Kuala Terla and Kampung Raja. All are nestled at an altitude of more than 1,200 meters.

The gateway to the highlands is via Tapah or Simpang Pulai. Both approaches are in the state of Perak.The Cameron Highlands got its name from William Cameron, a British surveyor who was commissioned by the then colonial government to map out the area in 1885.

In a statement concerning his mapping expedition, Cameron mentioned he saw “a vortex in the mountains, while for a (reasonably) wide area we have gentle slopes and plateau land.”

He (William Cameron) mapped out the high tableland on the Perak-Pahang borders known since as the Cameron Highlands and used to return to Kuala Lumpur at unpredictable intervals bringing samples of unexploited mineral deposits.
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TAMING THE JUNGLE, page 72[2]

When approached, the late Sir Hugh Low, the Resident of Perak, expressed the wish of developing the flat terrain as a “sanatorium, health resort and open farmland”. A narrow path to “Cameron’s Land” was then carved through the dense jungle. Nothing much happened after that.

Forty years later, Sir George Maxwell visited the locale and decided to transform the place into a hill station. A development committee was formed in 1925.[3] Later, a road was constructed from Tapah to the highlands.

The building of the road was a challenge. The crew not only had to deal with the weather; they also had to live with the risk of being down with malaria.

By the mid-1930s the resort was proving very popular for local leave. The Green Cow Tavern at the entrance to the Tallom Valley held the accolade of being the highest hotel in the peninsular.
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Out in the Midday Sun: The British in Malaya 1880-1960, page 129[4]

When the road was completed in 1931,[5] the British and the locals moved in to settle on the slopes of the mountain. They were soon followed by tea planters and vegetable growers who found the fertile soil and cool climate to be especially suitable for the growing of their crops.

By the mid-1930s, there was a remarkable change in the territory: it now had a nine-hole golf course, several cottages, three inns, a police post, two boarding schools, a dairy, nurseries, vegetable farms, tea estates, a Government Rest House and an Experimental Agricultural Station.

The district continued to grow until the outbreak of the Second World War. During the Japanese Occupation (1942–1945), there was hardly any development in the area. When the Japanese withdrew in August 1945, the place underwent a transformation.

Today, the haven is not only the biggest and best known of Malaysia’s hill stations; it is also the highest point in Malaysia which is accessible by car.[6]Miscellany

The green quietude of the Cameron Highlands.

The “Camerons" is unlike any other constituency in Malaysia: it enjoys an ecosystem that is second to none.

In 1958, the outpost was declared a reserve for deer. Four years later, it became a ward affording protection to animals and birds.[7]

There are six mountains at the retreat. The highest peak is Mount Batu Brinchang (Malay: Gunung Batu Brinchang). At the top of the 2,031-metre mountain is a radio and television station. Close to it is a 15-metre-high “Observation Tower”. This is the best place to get a good view of the neighbourhood.

Much of the Cameron Highlands is under cultivation. There are some 3,642 hectares of forest.[8] Jungle trials lead visitors to scenic spots, waterfalls and aboriginal villages.

Most of the tracks here begin at Tanah Rata. There are more than 14 paths to pick and choose from. Depending on its distance, some routes can take as long as five hours to cover.

Apart from its walks, the sanctuary is also known for its tea plantations, vegetable farms, orchards, nurseries, insect life, soaring peaks, nature spots, temperate plants, deep ravines, mossy forest, wild animals, serene lakes, golf links, meandering streams, jungle-clad hills, rest houses, places of worship, waterfalls, rolling greens, reptiles, colonial mansions, Land Rovers, migratory birds, animal traps and last but not least, its awe-inspiring natives.

The natives or aborigines are basically jungle dwellers. On the surface, their lifestyle has always been made out to be backward. But this has changed over the years. While many have left to take up residence in the nearby towns, there are still some who prefer to treat the jungle as their home.Landmarks and tourism

The buildings (at the Cameron Highlands) were similar to those of Simla, the “Queen of British hill resorts” in India, and were an eclectic mixture from “railway Gothic of the most overpowering kind to publican’s Tudor".
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Malaysia: A Pictorial History 1400 - 2004, page 185[9]

During the colonial era, the “Camerons” was a haven for the home sick. At present, it is a stopover for the many who want to escape from the heat of the lowlands. Over the years, there have been many changes at the province. Here are some landmarks that have withstood the test of time.

All Souls' Church

Located at Lot 68, Jalan Pejabat Hutan, the outpost’s little Church of England was once known to the early members of its congregation as The Cameron Highlands Church.

The history of this establishment can be traced back to the 1950s when the Vicar of Ipoh and the other members of the expatriate clergy held their services at either the Cameron Highlands Hotel (now the Cameron Highlands Resort) or the Slim School (which is presently the home of the Malaysian Commando Unit).

All Souls' Church.

In 1958, the church was extended an offer for a piece of land which used to adjoin the grounds of the former Slim School. The land, which was once owned by Miss Anne L.P. Griffith-Jones, was transferred to the Diocese on the understanding that a church would be built on it. To get things going, the members of the British army contributed a sum of US$1,220. Further to this, they also gave the church a dismantled “Nissen Hut”. It has since served as the building’s roof structure.

The construction of the church was completed in 1958. It was given the name “All Souls’ Church” during its consecration ceremony on April 30, 1959. The sanctification service was conducted by the Right Reverend Bishop H.W. Baines. Except for the addition of modern conveniences, the church has remained unchanged to this day.[10]

Bala’s Holiday Chalet

The inn is one of the oldest buildings at the Cameron Highlands. Built in 1935, the main building was once a boarding school.

Cameron Highlands Golf Club

It began with a nine-hole golf course in 1935. Back then, it was common to find tiger paw prints in the bunkers!

Today, the club is a lot different from what it once used to be. Apart from its improved facilities, it has also undergone a change in name. It is presently known as the Kelab Golf Sultan Ahmad Shah (SAS) Cameron Highlands.

Foster’s Lakehouse

Now known as The Lakehouse, this establishment was previously owned by the late Colonel Stanley J .Foster. Situated at the 30th Mile of Ringlet, the inn is approximately nine kilometres from Tanah Rata. Built in 1972, the unit sits atop a hill overlooking the Sultan Abu Bakar Lake. A lush forest reserve serves as its backdrop. With the demise of Colonel Foster, the ownership of the holiday home has changed hands many times. The outfit is currently managed by the Concorde group of hotels.HSBC Bank Malaysia Berhad

Previously known as The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, HSBC Bank was the first financial institution to operate at the Cameron Highlands.

In 1945, its banking services were carried out at the Cameron Highlands Hotel (now the Cameron Highlands Resort). Later, it moved to the British Military Hospital (now S.K. Convent). In 1947, it relocated to Tanah Rata. It has remained here to this day.

Kamunting Road (Jalan Kamunting)

There are five houses located along the corridor of Kamunting Road (Malay: Jalan Kamunting). They are “Moonlight” bungalow (A47), “Sunlight” mansion (A46), “Unit A43”, the “Lee Villa” (A44) and the Lutheran Mission Home (A45).

The precinct was in the news when Jim Thompson disappeared from the Cameron Highlands on Sunday, March 26, 1967. More than 500 people came this way to look for him. They included the police, aborigines, tourists, residents, mediums, scouts, missionaries, American school students and British servicemen convalescing at the resort.

Except for the presence of a government-owned building (Rumah Istirahat Kumpulan Wang Simpanan Perkerja), nothing much has changed in this area since the time Thompson was declared as lost.

Lutheran Mission bungalow

The unit was constructed before the outbreak of the Second World War. It was featured in the news when Jim Thompson visited the place on Sunday, March 26, 1967. He was at the chalet for a short while. He left the premises after taking a look at the garden.[11][12]

"Moonlight" bungalow.

Moonlight bungalow

Jim Thompson came to the Cameron Highlands with Mrs. Constance (Connie) Mangskau on Friday, March 24, 1967. They stayed at "Moonlight" bungalow with Dr. Ling Tien Gi, a Singaporean-Chinese chemist and Mrs. Helen Ling, his white American-born wife. On Easter Sunday, March 26, they attended the morning services at All Souls' Church. Later that day, he went for a walk but failed to return.
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SOLVED! (2nd ed.), pages 21 - 23[13]

Located at A47, Jalan Kamunting, the mock Tudor-styled dwelling is still a draw for the many who have had an interest in the mystery surrounding Jim Thompson’s disappearance from the Cameron Highlands. The pre-War unit was first built by a British company to accommodate its staff. After the Emergency, it was sold to the Lings. Later, it became the property of an Ipoh lawyer.

Before the present owners moved in, the premises belonged to a Chinese businessman followed by a resident from Kuala Lumpur. It was later taken over by a Caucasian who then sold it to a hotelier.

Today, the villa is worth more than a million US dollars.[14]Overseas Missionary Fellowship (OMF) bungalow

The mansion was built in 1933. The former Chefoo School (1952–2001) is neither a guest house nor is it a business concern. It is actually an abode where Christians gather for their retreats.

S.K. Convent

Brinchang circa. 1950s. Photo credit: Time Tunnel museum.

S.K. Convent or Sekolah Kebangsaan (H.I.J.) Convent is sited on a hillside overlooking the township of Tanah Rata. In the past, it served as a British military hospital. It became a full-fledged Catholic school in late 1971.

Sunlight bungalow

The mansion was once used by a British company to house its staff. It was constructed at about the same time as “Moonlight” bungalow. It is located approximately three kilometres from Brinchang.

Tanah Rata Post Office

The post office was officially opened by Tunku Abdul Rahman, the then Chief Minister of Malaya on June 25, 1956. Situated on the main road of Jalan Besar, it is the only post office in the area that provides a “Poste restante” service.

Ye Olde Smokehouse

Built by William Warin in 1939,[15] the mock Tudor-styled hotel is renowned for celebrating everything British. The inn is modeled on its namesake, the Smokehouse in Beck Row, Mildenhall, England, the United Kingdom.

The interior is reminiscent of an English country house with open fireplaces and wood-panelled walls. Outside, the landscape would pass for an authentic English garden.

The landmark overlooks the Sultan Ahmad Shah golf course on the Tanah Rata-Bringchang road junction. It is still a popular place for visitors to gather for their afternoon tea and scones.
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Townships/settlements

The Cameron Highlands is one of the 11 administrative divisions of Pahang. It comprises three townships and five settlements. The three townships are Ringlet, Tanah Rata and Brinchang.

Ringlet is the first town after the turn off at the Tapah Interchange. It is about 12 kilometres from Tanah Rata. It is one of the agricultural hubs of the region.

Tanah Rata is the administrative centre of the Cameron Highlands. The general hospital, police station and post office are located at this municipality.

Brinchang is four kilometres from Tanah Rata. It is the biggest town of the retreat.

The five settlements in the area are the Bertam Valley, Kea Farm, Tringkap, Kuala Terla and Kampung Raja. All are separated from one another by a considerable distance.

Bertam Valley is five kilometres from Ringlet. It is involved with the growing of flowers and vegetables.

Kea Farm is six kilometres from Tanah Rata. It is the highest village in peninsular Malaysia.

Tringkap is seven kilometres from Brinchang. It is close to the tea estates.

Kuala Terla is five kilometres from Tringkap. Most of the residents here are farmers.

Kampung Raja is the first town after departing the Simpang Pulai Interchange. It is, by and large, a residential area.
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Access

The entryway to the Cameron Highlands is via the Tapah Interchange or the Simpang Pulai Interchange. If you choose the former, exit the North-South Expressway and proceed to the resort via Federal Route 59 . If the latter is more convenient, depart the North-South Expressway and travel by way of the Second East-West Highway . You should reach Kampung Raja in an hour.
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References
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Notes
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. pp. 19. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ Barr, Pat (1977). TAMING THE JUNGLE. Martin Secker & Warburg Limited. pp. 72. ISBN 0436 033658.
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. pp. 18. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ Shennan, Margaret (2000). Out in the Midday Sun: The British in Malaya 1880-1960. John Murray (Publishers) Ltd.. pp. 129. ISBN 0-7195-5716X.
^ Shennan, Margaret (2000). Out in the Midday Sun: The British in Malaya 1880-1960. John Murray (Publishers) Ltd.. pp. 128. ISBN 0-7195-5716X.
^ Day, J. David (1990). Malaysia: Gemstone of Southeast Asia. Tropical Press Sdn. Bhd.. pp. 69. ISBN 967-73-0042-3.
^ Rodrigo, Jennifer (1996). Malaysia: The Beautiful. New Holland (Publishers) Ltd. pp. 19. ISBN 1-85368-744-8.
^ Rodrigo, Jennifer (1996). Malaysia: The Beautiful. New Holland (Publishers) Ltd. pp. 19. ISBN 1-85368-744-8.
^ Moore, Wendy Khadijah (2004). Malaysia: A Pictorial History 1400–2004. Archipelago Press. pp. 185. ISBN 981-4068-77-2.
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. pp. 125. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ "Cook: I saw millionaire the day he vanished”, The Straits Times, Thursday, March 30, 1967. pp. 1.
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. pp. 27. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. pp. 21–23. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ De Souza, Edward Roy (2010). SOLVED! The "Mysterious" Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King (2nd ed). Word Association Publishers. p. 128. ISBN 978-1-59571-505-0. LCCN 2009-944204.
^ Moore, Wendy Khadijah (2004). Malaysia: A Pictorial History 1400–2004. Archipelago Press. pp. 185. ISBN 981-4068-77-2.